VDiff-TheTradClimbersGuideToProblemSolving-November2018.pdf

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The Trad Climber's Guide
To Problem Solving
First Edition
November 2018
Warning: Climbing is Dangerous
Simply browsing this e-book will not cause
you to suddenly become an experienced
trad climber. Mistakes are easy to make
and accidents can be fatal.
Do not rely on this manual as your primary
source of rock climbing information. This e-
book is intended to be supplemented with
information from trained professionals.
Failure to do this may result in serious
injury or death.
The author and publisher assume no
rrrrrrrrrrr
liability for readers who participate in the
activities described in this manual.
Do not use any information contained
within this e-book, or on the VDiff website,
to plan, attempt or climb a particular route
unless you are willing to assume personal
responsibility for all risks associated.
VDiff is also not responsible should you
succeed at climbing something totally
awesome or achieve your wildest ambition:
you did that all by yourself!
Callum Coldwell-Storry on The South African Route, Torre Central, Patagonia.
Photo:
VDiff Collection.
Copyright
© VDiff 2018. All rights reserved. This
publication is the property of VDiff.
Front Cover Photography:
Ryan Larkin descending from Moonlight,
Kananaskis, Alberta, Canada.
Photo:
Alex Ratson.
You can do this:
-
Print this e-book in its original form for
personal use.
-
Share the link to the original download
source from
www.vdiffclimbing.com
You cannot do this:
-
Edit or sell this e-book
-
Claim this e-book, or any part of it, to be
your own work
-
Use any part of this e-book to sell a
product or service
-
Offer this e-book for download on any
other website
Who is This Guide For?
This guide is intended for climbers who are
competent at basic trad climbing skills such
as:
-
Placing trad gear
-
Building trad anchors
-
Abseiling
-
Multi-pitch climbing
If you are unfamiliar with these techniques,
or need a refresher, consider downloading
our beginner’s guide;
Trad Climbing
Basics:
www.vdiffclimbing.com/ebook-trad
Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com
3
Contents
6
Accident Prevention
12
Advanced Anchor
Building
36
Abseiling
68
Lead Skills
103 Self-Rescue
162 Essential Knots
VDiff – The Trad Climber's Guide To Problem Solving
4
The Aim of This Manual
To get the most out of this manual, you
should:
1)
Read the theories carefully
2)
Practise the techniques safely
3)
Review your knowledge
4)
Repeat
Climbing gyms or short single pitch crags
are great venues for practising techniques.
Practise with a partner and use the added
safety of a top rope in case it all goes
wrong. Challenge yourself to improvise
different solutions for each problem.
The more times you solve similar problems
with similar variables, the easier they are to
solve again. Over time, these common
problems will be solved subconsciously.
When you combine the theories in this
manual with real-life practise, your
decisions will, hopefully, start to get better
and become more subconscious. That is
the aim of this manual.
See you out there,
Neil Chelton
VDiff Founder
Keiko Tanaka and Joe Shultz on the first ascent of Mister Ron, Fisher Towers, Utah.
Photo:
VDiff Collection.

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