World-Control-Panel.pdf

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World Control Panel
World Control Panel
Written By: Steve Lodefink
TOOLS:
CNC cutter (1)
(optional) I wish I’d used one for all the
drilling!
Center punch (1)
with a sharp tip
Computer and inkjet printer (1)
Drill and bits (1)
1/6", 1/8", 13/64", 11/32", 10mm You’ll
also need bits to match your toggles and
buttons; ours were about 1⁄4" and 9/32".
File or belt sander (1)
to deburr and round aluminum edges
Hammer (1)
Hot glue gun (1)
Router with rabbeting bit (1)
(optional)
Rubber Mallet (1)
(optional) to flatten the aluminum if you
bend it
Sander, random orbit (1)
PARTS:
Switches, toggle, panel mount (7)
Switches, momentary, panel mount (1)
medium (2), any size (1) for sound
buttons and the Larson Scanner mode
button
EMS Larson Scanner Kit from
evilmadscience.com. (1)
Get the one with the 10mm diffused
LEDs.
Digital recording module (1)
9V RadioShack #276-1323,
radioshack.com
LEDs, 3mm, diffused (1)
blue (25), red (10), amber (10)
LEDs, 5mm (1)
green (4), red (2) for switch indicators
LED, 5mm, flashing (2)
the kind with the integrated flasher
Resistors, various values (62)
All LEDs in this project need current-
limiting resistors. Typical values for
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World Control Panel
Sandpaper, 50 and 180 grits (1)
Screwdriver, Phillips head (1)
Soldering iron and solder (1)
Spray-mount adhesive (1)
Table saw or miter saw (1)
Wire cutters and strippers (1)
limiting resistors. Typical values for
different colored LEDs running at 4.5V
are: red 180Ω, blue 68Ω, white 68Ω,
green 120Ω, and amber 150Ω. But be
sure to use resistors that are appropriate
for the actual LEDs that you use.
Cable ties, small (7)
Heat-shrink tubing (1)
(optional)
IC, 555 timer (1)
Transistor, PNP, 2907 type (1)
Resistors: 4.7kΩ (1), 150kΩ (1) (1)
Capacitor, electrolytic, 1 F (1)
Capacitor, ceramic, 0.1mF (1)
LEDs, high brightness (1)
white (7), wide angle: red (3)
Perf board, about 2"×3" (1)
Hardwood lumber (1)
1"×4", 26" total length
Aluminum sheet (1)
1"×141⁄2"×101"
Plywood (1)
1"×11"×151⁄2"
Diffusion paper or gels (1)
such as amazon.com #B000265DJU
Testors decal paper, clear (1)
Acrylic sealant, clear (1)
Wood screws, small (8)
Wood glue (1)
Battery holder, 3 x AA (1)
Hookup wire (1)
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World Control Panel
SUMMARY
Zoinks!
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My son Harlan and his pals love to play “Agents.” When he asked me if I could build him a
control panel that had “a bunch of switches and random blinking lights,” I couldn’t have been
happier.
I have to admit, I have a bit of a control panel fetish, and my favorite thing about electronics
tinkering is making lights blink — which is just about all this device really does.
I immediately imagined some kind of backlit, brushed-metal map of the world, with a radar
scanner and a variety of indicator lights and toggle switches that would allow him to com-
municate with field agents, remotely dispatch weaponized sharks, or detect enemy activity.
The console employs a combination of readymade and custom circuits to achieve various
lighting and sound effects. Ours is used for world domination, but the same basic panel
would work equally well for tracking the migration of a swarm of Monarch butterflies, or
detecting unicorns, if that’s what you need. Here’s how I built it.
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World Control Panel
Step 1 — Design the panel.
I had a solid idea of how the
perforated map display might work,
but I wasn’t sure how to achieve
my vague “radar scanner” concept.
Then I remembered that Evil Mad
Science (where else would you buy
parts for a world domination
panel?) sells a kit to build a Larson
Scanner — you know, that light-
chaser effect made famous in the
Knight Rider and Battlestar
Galactica TV shows. It’s perfect for
“scanning the world” before flipping
the various function switches.
I also ordered amber, blue, and red
3mm diffused LEDs from EMS.
RadioShack’s digital sound-
recording module sells for $10 and
uses nonvolatile memory, so your
last recorded sound isn’t lost when
the power goes away. I added one
of these to the panel to serve as a
“field communicator.”
In keeping with the 1960s sci-fi/spy
motif I had in mind, I decided to
control everything with a bank of
classic metal toggle switches and
indicator lights.
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World Control Panel
Step 2 — Build the cabinet.
You can use a pre-built enclosure, or build your own. Here’s how I made mine, angled
toward the operator like an old studio mixer.
For the left and right sides, cut an 11" length of 1"×4" hardwood lumber in half diagonally,
creating 2 pieces, each 1" high at one end and 3" at the other. For the front and rear sides,
cut a 15" length straight across to leave a 1" wide piece for the front, and a 3" piece for the
rear.
Miter all 4 sidepieces to 45°, then clamp and glue them like a picture frame. Once the glue
has dried, sand the joints flush. (I had to add screws later because glue wouldn’t stick to
the oily ipê wood that I used — don’t use ipê!)
Cut a bottom panel 11"×15-1/2" from 1/8" plywood and attach it with 4 wood screws.
The top panel is a 14-1/2"×10" piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet. I used a router to cut a 1/8"-
deep rabbet in the topside of the wooden frame, to allow the top panel to sit flush. Then I
rounded the corners of the aluminum with a 50-grit sanding block to match the radius of
the rabbeting bit.
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