Build-a-MakerShield.pdf

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Build a MakerShield
Build a MakerShield
Written By: Marc de Vinck
TOOLS:
Solder (1)
Soldering iron (1)
Wire cutters (1)
PARTS:
MakerShield (1)
SUMMARY
If you aspire to do more than blink an LED with your new Arduino or Netduino, you need a
prototyping shield that allows you to build a circuit. After listening to our readers and
customers, we created a new kind of prototyping shield that supports the needs of noobs as
well as advanced users. Introducing MakerShield!
Unlike conventional prototyping shields, Maker Shield lets you create circuits the way you
want, and easily change them without having to solder. All of the MakerShield’s major
components and pins are user-assignable, allowing you to jump from any component header
pin to any pin on the microcontroller. Make all the changes you want. Just jump and go!
The MakerShield’s potentiometer lets you switch between 5V or 3.3V signals, so the growing
numbers of Netduino users can use MakerShield too.
Being able to change the pins connected to the onboard LEDs, button, and potentiometer
allows beginners to learn Arduino software with ease, while more advanced users will
appreciate the convenience of the onboard components, the incredible flexibility, and the
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Build a MakerShield
ability to stack another shield on top — the MakerShield uses stackable header pins and
retains the original ICSP pin locations of the Arduino.
Step 1 — Build a MakerShield
Compare the kit contents to those
listed on
the product page in the
Maker Shed.
Step 2
First we will add the red and green LEDs. The LEDs have 1 long lead and 1 short lead. The
long lead goes into the hole labeled (+) on the PCB. We recommend putting the green LED
on the right side (side with the logo) and the red on the left side, but choice is yours.
After you put the LEDs into the board, flip it over and bend the leads outwards so they will
stay in place while you solder them.
After you solder the leads, clip them close to the board.
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Build a MakerShield
Step 3
Next, add the matching resistor for each LED. They are inserted into the board at locations
R1 and R2. Resistors are not polarized, so you can place them in either direction. Notice
how the resistor is standing up, or "tombstoning." This board is packed with components,
and this is a great way to save space!
The second picture shows the resistor for LED2. It is soldered in the same way as LED1.
Step 4
Next, we'll add the buttons to the
board. They snap in place at
locations BTN1 and RESET
(possibly BTN2). Flip the board
over, solder the leads, and trim.
Easy!
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Build a MakerShield
Step 5
Now we will add the power filtering capacitors. They aren't polarized, so their orientation
doesn't matter. Add them to the area of the PCB by the "tx" and "rx" pins. Make sure they
match the silkscreen and are placed in the correct holes.
Next, bend the leads out, the same as you did with the LEDs and resistors, and solder
them in place.
Step 6
Adding the ICSP header. It's much
easier to add the ICSP header pins
by placing them in the appropriate
spot on the PCB (labeled ICSP)
and flip the board over on a flat
surface. This holds the pins against
the board and makes soldering a
snap.
Note: Be sure to trim the leads
on the back. They need to be as
flush as possible.
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Build a MakerShield
Step 7
Solder the 3.3V - 5V jumper pins. Use the same method for soldering in the 5v - 3.3v 3-pin
header. The short ends of the pins should be placed through the board and soldered. The
long leads will be facing up, or on the topside of the board.
Next, go ahead and add the included jumper so you don't lose it! This jumper allows you to
select either a 3.3v signal from the potentiometer, or a 5v signal.
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