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LAKES
EXPE
RIENCE
/ Magazine
Lakes Experience
#inLombardia
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Magazine
They have seen the birth of prehistoric
forms of life and civilisations, defended
Italy from the threat of invasion and
fascinated poets and writers. Lombardy’s
lakes are a wealth of history just
waiting to be discovered, either
on a trip around their banks or a journey
into the surrounding areas. They offer
amazing experiences to suit all tastes,
to be savoured slowly, off the beaten
track. These pages are filled with ideas
and suggestions, starting points for trips
that will take you into the beauty
of breath-taking, unspoilt nature,
and allow a close up look at masterpieces
of art and architecture or the opportunity
to simply relax.
Cover
Grotte di Catullo, Sirmione, Lake Garda.
Lake Garda
The wild side
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Experience 1
Towns perched on cliffs over the water,
with dizzy views. And roads dug out of the rock,
as harsh as…
“An inland branch” of the Mediterranean sea for many
centuries, the upper Garda lake or “Alto Garda” is the
northernmost part of a large citrus-producing area.
Lemons are found anywhere. Terraced crops and facilities
protecting the plants during winter were first introduced
in the Thirteenth century and impressed Goethe during his
Italian Journey at the end of the Eighteenth century.
Scattered in the territory around the municipalities
of Limone, Gargnano and Maderno, these old lemon crops,
or what is left today of the old facilities, pay witness
to a long history of work, skilfulness and impressive
results, visually illustrated in the
Ecomuseo della limonaia
Pra dela Fam
(an ecological museum in the port of Tignale).
The large greenhouse on the lake shore is of great
architectural and landscape interest, with the opportunity
to taste local lemon-based products (including lemons
pickled in salt and flavoured with pepper or chilli pepper).
In Limone, a special lemon crop called
Limonaia del Castèl,
situated under the rocks of Mount Sughera, is also worth
a visit, with its profusion of walls and pillars all around
and its old growing methods.
__
Tremosine.
Experience 1
Lake Garda
The wild side
Adjacent
Limonaia del Castèl, Limone.
Below
Strada della Forra.
Lemons and more
Gabriele D'Annunzio, Italian writer and poet, had
the merit of making the
Limone del Garda
village
accessible by road. Until 1931, it could only be
reached on foot or by boat. He advocated the
completion of construction works of the
Gardesana Occidentale road, which today runs
along the Lombard shore of the upper lake.
This village, a favourite among German tourists,
retains its old houses around a small port, which
evokes an ancient period, when the village was
nothing but an area for fisherman. Walking
through its narrow alleys you will come across the
San Pietro’s church,
a patron saint of the place
since the Ninth century. Roofs are covered by flat
Roman tiles and traces of old frescos can be found
under the small portico. The bell tower was
partially torn down during World War I to remove
a strategic target for an Austrian cannon placed in
the nearby Crocette. Limone is also the birthplace
of a saint,
San Daniele Comboni,
whose house can
still be visited to get an insight of the work
of missionaries, of both genders, of the San Daniele
Order all over the world.
Strong emotions
Tremosine
overlooks the lake from above
on an extensive plateau and resembles more
an alpine village than a lake town, with its grazing
land and typical mountain activities.
Vegetation, however, is typically Mediterranean.
A trip to Tremosine, among the most picturesque
Italian municipalities, is a totally emotional
experience. It only suffices to run along the
Strada
della Forra,
a panoramic road that Winston
Churchill defined the ‘Eighth World Wonder’…
The road climbs amidst mountains by exploiting
a natural cleavage excavated by the Brasa torrent.
Walking or driving through it after sunset
is particularly inspiring, better if you do it
on a motorbike. The
Terrazza del Brivido
is not
to be missed, i.e. a panoramic terrace
suspended at a height of 350 m over the lake
4
surface, for a breathtaking 360° experience,
including a view on the Strada della Forra road.
The terrace can be freely accessed from the
Paradiso Hotel.
Green spaces and silence
A site of Community interest for the EU,
Valvestino
is a paradise for nature lovers. This charming, wild
mountain area is a border and transition land, which
has been inhabited since prehistory and also
crossed by the ancient Romans. During World War
I, it was under Austrian rule. If you walk through a
trail leading from
Magasa
to Mounts Tombea and
Caplone, you will meet old military depots
excavated in the rock, trenches and masonry
outposts, or settlements built on the ground. The
barns with thatched roofs of
Cima Rest
and
Denai
are also worth visiting. These are the only remains,
in the Alpine chain, to bear witness to an old culture
and have now been refurbished into comfortable
accommodation facilities.
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5 reasons for
Gargnano Sailing Club. Centomiglia attracts
hundreds of teams from all over Europe. Sailboats
depart from Bogliaco and return late at night,
applauded by a cheerful audience.
4.
The bisse boats.
The bisse are flat-hulled boats that
easily navigate through the lake water.
They have four rowers, who row standing up with
a technique that combines synchronisation, balance
and rhythm of movement. This tradition has been
resumed since 1967. In various villages scattered
along the Lombard shore, sporting clubs are now
handing down this long-standing tradition.
5.
Formaggella di Tremosine.
A kind of soft cheese
with a fragrant taste and a delicate smell of
mountain prairies. It is cured in rooms with
selected mildew types.
5
1.
Sports for all tastes.
The lake and mountains
of Alto Garda are a sportsman’s paradise: sailing
and surfing can be practised in Gargnano, Limone
and Tremosine, horseriding, paragliding and golf in
Toscolano Maderno, canoying in Tignale, cycling
and trekking in the Alto Garda Bresciano Park.
2.
The Sentiero del Sole in Limone.
This easy-to-walk
panoramic trail winds at the foot of the Alto Garda
mountains. With clear signs placed along it,
it runs through olive groves and World War
remains and offers the opportunity to see
a typical quicklime kiln called calchéra. Views
on the lake are amazing.
3.
The Centomiglia Freshwater Regatta, Bogliaco.
Since 1951 this appointment falls in the second
weekend of September and is organised by the
Lake Garda
The shadow
of D’Annunzio
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Experience 2
From the Vittoriale degli Italiani to the
fifteenth-century Cathedral in Salò,
via the Valle delle Cartiere valley in
Toscolano Maderno: all the spectacular
sights around Gardone Riviera
This incredible town is home to the
monument built by poet Gabriele
D’Annunzio, the
Vittoriale degli Italiani,
in celebration of his life. He retired to
Gardone Riviera in 1921, where he
bought the villa in Cargnacco, one
of the town’s districts. With collaboration
from the young architect Gian Carlo
Maroni, he gradually extended
the property, adding buildings, gardens
and even an amphitheatre. In the house
where he then lived until 1938, visitors
can today walk among his furniture
and books, discovering the secrets of a life
that was decidedly out of the ordinary.
The Vittoriale is also home to a collection
of mementos dating back to the early
twentieth century, from the aeroplane
in which D’Annunzio flew over Vienna
during World War One to the torpedo
ram he received as a gift from the Italian
Royal Navy in 1923.
Paper trails
A must-visit in Toscolano Maderno is the
Valle delle Cartiere,
eroded by the river
that in medieval times was used to power
the factories producing the hand-made
paper that was famous all over Europe,
as is explained in the small museum here,
open from April to September. Closed
__
Lungolago Zanardelli, Salò.
7

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